Although somewhat lean, tannic, and austere, the 2006 Pinot Noir Deer Camp displays attractive aromas and flavors of forest floor and red fruits. Tel. (707) 257-5300; Fax (707) 257-6022

This is a dark, huge Pinot Noir, so rich and opulently fruity that it might almost be a Grenache. It has a thick, soft mouthfeel, and is explosive in cherry jam, red licorice and mocha flavors that are utterly delicious. However, there’s a certain direct appeal that lacks complexity and nuance. Drink now and over the next few years.——S.H.(3/1/2009)—— 88