The Bursin 2007 Riesling Zinnkoepfle smells of diverse citrus rinds whose oily, bitter pungency follows on the palate. But at the same time, this offers a juicy, refreshing side of lime and tangerine on the palate, accompanied by green hazelnut and wreathed with bittersweet floral perfume. Intense and penetrating – even a bit severe – in finish, it nevertheless refreshes and invigorates, with mineral nuances adding to the promise of additional complexity. I would not hesitate to plan on holding some of this admirably concentrated Riesling for a dozen years. Agathe Bursin – for more about whom consult issue 175 – is one of Alsace’s major emerging talents, as witness her surprisingly fine showing in the difficult 2006 vintage. Bursin’s 2007 vintage Rieslings are comparatively firm, though they may well blossom short-term, and as usual she has scored impressive results with Gewurztraminer.A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29