The 2003 Pinot Noir Ryan offers attractive sweet sassafras, plum, berry, and compost-like notes reminiscent of a grand cru Burgundy from the Cotes de Nuits. The plums, cherries, and sweet, broad impression continue on the palate. This complex Pinot Noir should drink well for 5-10 years. Kudos to DuMol, one of the brilliant shining stars of the North Coast Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Syrah sweepstakes. In the past four years, this has become one of my favorite stops on my tasting trip through California’s North Coast. One can’t say enough about owner Kerry Murphy and his talented winemaker, Scotsman Andy Smith. Together they have produced a bevy of extraordinary Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs, and recently added some full-throttle Syrahs to the portfolio. Tel. (925) 254-8922; Fax (925) 254-8942