The 2009 Pinot Noir Ryan is another very pretty and complete wine. Freshly cut flowers, red berries, spices and licorice are some of the many notes that take shape in the glass. Underlying veins of minerality support the fruit and give the wine much of its energy. I don’t find the same level of complexity or interest here as I do with the best wines in this lineup, but in exchange, the Ryan will be ready to drink pretty much right out of the gate. The vineyard sources are Widdoes and Abbott. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2021. This is a very strong set of wines from DuMOL and winemaker Andy Smith. Like so many producers, DuMOL is in the midst of a stylistic shift that began around 2005. Smith described some of the estate’s earlier wines as a bit too heavy. Today’s approach emphasizes picking a bit earlier than in the past and places greater emphasis on complexity, structure and acidity. At times, the malolactic fermentations are blocked. The Chardonnays are barrel fermented and aged in oak (50% new) with all of their lees, but there is no stirring of the lees. Tel. (925) 254-8922; www.dumol.com

The 2009 Pinot Noir Ryan is another very pretty and complete wine. Freshly cut flowers, red berries, spices and licorice are some of the many notes that take shape in the glass. Underlying veins of minerality support the fruit and give the wine much of its energy. I don’t find the same level of complexity or interest here as I do with the best wines in this lineup, but in exchange, the Ryan will be ready to drink pretty much right out of the gate. The vineyard sources are Widdoes and Abbott. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2021. This is a very strong set of wines from DuMOL and winemaker Andy Smith. Like so many producers, DuMOL is in the midst of a stylistic shift that began around 2005. Smith described some of the estate’s earlier wines as a bit too heavy. Today’s approach emphasizes picking a bit earlier than in the past and places greater emphasis on complexity, structure and acidity. At times, the malolactic fermentations are blocked. The Chardonnays are barrel fermented and aged in oak (50% new) with all of their lees, but there is no stirring of the lees.Tel. (925) 254-8922; www.dumol.com