The 2008 Syrah White Hawk is one of the more medium-bodied Syrahs in this lineup. It shows lovely varietal nuance and length to match its understated personality. Plums, herbs and tar come together nicely on the expressive finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018. This is a gorgeous set of wines from Ojai and proprietor Adam Tolmach. The 2009 Pinots and 2008 Syrahs in particular are terrific. The best Ojai wines – and there are many that vie for that label – are gorgeous, transparent to site and highly expressive. As always, the style at Ojai is fairly non-interventionalist. Since 2005, the fermentations have been gentler, with less overall extraction. The malos proceed naturally and slowly. As a rule, the wines are never racked until bottling. The Ojai wines remain exceedingly fairly priced considering the quality and painstaking effort that goes into every bottle. Tel. (805) 649-1674; www.ojaivineyard.com

Offering spice, pepper and nutmeg notes, this is firm and trim, tightening on the finish, with grainy tannins. Best from 2013 through 2022. 196 cases made. –JL