From fruit in the sector below Mitans, and thus spared the worst effects of hail on Volnay’s south side, d’Angerville’s 2008 Volnay combines red raspberry and rhubarb with fresh ginger and cinnamon for a decidedly pungent yet delicate performance, with saline and veal stock-like savor adding depth to its bright, berry-tart, mouthwatering finish. Like so many 2008 reds, this refreshing cuvee would score just as high measured against typical white wine virtues. It should remain tasty and versatile for at least the next 6-8 years, though I would be inclined to drink it while its fruit is youthfully vivid. Guillaume d’Angerville and Renaud de Villette had good reason for their upbeat assessment of 2008 quality given the vintage’s travails, notably July hail that ravaged their Champans and parts of their villages and Bourgogne holdings, as well as touching other sites. The hail came too soon in the season, though, to have ill-effects on the eventual health of the fruit, and the team did not start picking until the 27th of September. With the exception of Clos des Ducs and Taillepieds – bottled the week of my April visit, but showing no ill-effects, au contraire – the 2008s were bottled in early March. Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400