An intriguing Pinot Noir that shows the possibilities of this cool-climate, southwestern Sonoma region. The wine has been well-oaked, but it’s powerful enough to carry that coating of caramel and char, with a massive palate explosion of pureed ripe cherries, red currants and sweet rhubarb pie. Delicious now with decanting, and should do interesting things over the next six years. ——S.H.(12/15/2008)—— 92