The 2009 Crozes-Hermitage Domaine Mule Blanche (a nearly 18 acre estate), an equal part blend of Marsanne and Roussanne, exhibits notes of honeyed grapefruit, nectarine, roses, white flowers and buttered citrus. This medium to full-bodied, complex, waxy white should be consumed over the next 5-7 years. It did not take long for Caroline Frey to whip this somewhat rudderless (following the death of Gerard Jaboulet in the late 1990s) estate into shape. The first few years were transitionary ones, but in 2009 she was aided by what is an exceptional vintage in the Northern Rhone as well as low yields at Jaboulet (20 hectoliters per hectare at Les Bessards and 25 hectoliters per hectare at Le Meal). The result is the greatest vintage at Jaboulet since 1990. Moreover, it is clear they have moved away from a large negociant operation to estate-bottled domaine wines, which all of the following represent. If you have been off the Jaboulet bandwagon over the last decade or so, now is the time to jump back on for both whites and reds. They still own just under 300 acres spread throughout the Rhone Valley, with their biggest holdings 52 acres in Hermitage and 112+ acres at their Domaine de Thalabert in Crozes-Hermitage. As I have indicated before, the Frey family has instituted a strict selection process in order to cull out the finest lots for their flagship wine - Hermitage La Chapelle. Production used to be 8,000-10,000 cases, but for the 2009 Hermitage La Chapelle, which will be the greatest La Chapelle since 1990 and 1978, there are only 2,000 cases. The white wines have jumped considerably in quality. Most are now put through 100% malolactic. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

At first, the oak on this wine seems a little obtrusive, the smoky and toasty notes laying atop the fruit. But with time in the glass, grilled pineapple comes out and the toasty notes become more subtle and nut-like. The blend is 50-50 Marsanne-Roussanne. Drink now–2018. ——J.C.(10/1/2011)—— 90