The 2008 REDOMA RESERVA Branco is from high altitude vineyards (400 to 800 meters) and old vines (80 years old) aged in cask and on the lees for 9 months, without maloactic fermentation. It is a typical Douro white blend of grapes like Rabigato, Codega, Donzelinho, Viosinho and Arinto that comes in at just under 13% alcohol. This looks to be a very fine performance. It adds a layer –or two—of depth to the regular Redoma, and the acidity is quite prominent early on. As with the regular Redoma, I might have preferred a little less oak, but this has the depth to absorb it and as it aired out and warmed up, I noticed the oak less and less. It is mouth gripping, mouthwatering, deep and flavorful and I liked it more and more for its persistence, brightness and elegance. If the ’05 bottling was not Niepoort’s best white, this may well be, which in turn makes it one of the Douro’s best brancos. There were 600 cases produced, of which only 25 were imported. Experience has shown that these tend to show best on the younger side, but this should hold a reasonable time, and better than most. Drink now-2013. In the right years, Niepoort is a top producer in the Douro, for both white and red, which not many can say. His wines are imported, but not in large quantities, which may be related to the relatively high price points. In his lineup this year, the Tiara and regular Redoma Branco are the sweet spots for bang for the buck. Importer: Martine’s Wines, Inc., Novato, CA.; tel: (415) 883-0400; except in New York/New Jersey: Eric Solomon, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565.