The 1994 Crozes-Hermitage Cuvee Gaby exhibits copious quantities of smoky, rich, pure, cassis fruit, a lovely, ripe, sweet, round mid-section, a touch of toasty oak from new barrels, and a spicy, supple, well-endowed finish. Already accessible, it promises to drink well for 5-7 years. Winemaker Florent Viale came to my attention because of the fine 1993s he produced, a vintage where some of the best northern Rhone wine producers had difficulties. Unfortunately, only microscopic quantities of the Domaine du Colombier offerings are available, but they are well-worth a search of the marketplace. Kysela Pere et Fils, 130 Windy Hill Lane, Suite W5-12/12A, Winchester, VA 22602; telephone (540) 722-9228 and fax (540) 722-9258