The 1998 Crozes-Hermitage Cuvee Gaby is a delicious, beautifully ripe Syrah with a dark ruby/purple color in addition to an excellent nose of blackberries and cassis. There are some underlying smoke and earthy overtones, but this wine is dominated by its concentrated, jammy, ripe fruit. The acidity is reasonable and the tannin sweet. Drink this fine wine value over the next 7-8 years. FRAN KYSELA, 130 Windy Hill Lane, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722-9228; fax (540) 722-9258