Paul Hobbs’ 2002 Chardonnay Cuvee Agustina (Richard Dinner Vineyard) is a gorgeous, full-throttle, Batard-Montrachet-like, in-your-face wine with a greenish straw color, huge body, and wonderfully sweet aromas of smoky tropical fruit intermixed with some citrus oil, hazelnut, and orange blossom notes. This powerful Chardonnay, which should drink well for 3-4 years, is the last to be released of the 2002 Chardonnays, the others of which were reviewed in Issue 150. Tel. (707) 824-9879; Fax (707) 824-5843

The terrific 2002 Chardonnay Cuvee Agustina reveals exotic orange marmalade intermixed with smoky French oak, an unctuous texture, and a long, heady finish. I visited Paul Hobbs at his new winery, which should give him greater ability and flexibility to exploit some of northern California’s finest vineyards. Hobbs, one of my favorite winemakers, has an impressive resume, having worked at some of the better northern California wineries. He continues to work for some of the better South American producers. His 2001s and 2002s represent his finest portfolio yet. In spite of his affable, down-to-earth personality, this guy is clearly driven, and gives meticulous thought to every decision he makes. His wines are the result of a winemaking philosophy that includes only indigenous yeasts for fermentation, full malolactic for whites and reds, and no clarification ... meaning no fining or filtration. Hobbs has culled out some of northern California’s great sites for Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon. I suppose it is only a matter of time before he turns his attention to Syrah, which seems like a natural progression given what he has already accomplished.Tel. (707) 824-9879; Fax (707) 824-5843