The 2009 Gavi La Rocca?is a pretty, precise white layered with citrus, mint and flowers. It loses a little steam on the mid-palate, but is nevertheless attractive and nicely balanced. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2012. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Gavi is a fantastically fresh and luminous white wine from Piedmont in northern Italy that offers tonic, compact aromas of stone fruit, honey and cantaloupe melon. There’s a softness in the mouth that is soon followed by refreshing zest.——M.L.(11/1/2011)—— 87