The estate’s 2005 Brunello di Montalcino is powerful and focused, although the intensity of the fruit trails off a touch on the mid-palate and finish. Wild cherries, tobacco, new leather, spices and earthiness gradually emerge as this brooding, intense Brunello reveals its pedigree. Menthol, tar and licorice add further dimensions of complexity on the long, lingering finish. Readers who don’t mind some tannins may find the wine approachable in its youth, but this is one of a handful of 2005 Brunellos that could use another year or two (at least) in bottle. Alternatively, I found the wine much more open and almost delicate after two hours of air. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. Canalicchio di Sopra - Ripaccioli seems to be making better and better wines with each passing vintage. The estate’s Rosso and Brunellos are sourced from vineyards in the Canalicchio and Montosoli districts, both on the northern side of Montalcino, and are aged predominantly in cask. Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (631) 467-5907

Here’s a tight and compact expression from Montalcino with bright tones of cherry wood, wild berries and violets that are delivered in steady aromatic pulses. The finish is not too long or persistent, but the flavors are fresh and very tasty while they last. ——M.L.(10/1/2010)—— 88