A glance at the beautiful purple-blue robe and a whiff of the silky, seductive nose, and you know you have arrived in the promised land of “true” Burgundy. Young, tangy and tasting almost like a barrel sample, it nonetheless displays both power and finesse in a tight, textured, sculpted package. An earthy, roasted component lengthens the finish. ——P.G.(11/1/2002)—— 92