On several occasions as late as November 3, the Hitzbergers picked their 2007 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel Rotes Tor. It does not possess the concentration or complexity of last year’s version, but offers a delightful mingling of lilac, lime, and beet root; quite delicate palate weight; silky and refined texture; generous juiciness; and a finish with saline, stony suggestions of minerality. Enjoy it over the coming 4-5 years: this is never a wine that tires – or that one tires of – quickly. Most of Hirtzberger’s 2007 vintage Gruner Veltliner reflect their late dates of harvest and the presence of botrytis (a certain amount of which he always welcomes) in rich, low tones.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

A piercingly fresh wine, lifted by delicious green apple and citrus flavors. The wine is lively, light, but given backbone by a crisp, cool minerality, a steely core.——R.V.(7/1/2009)—— 87