The superb 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Reserve offers aromas of cedar, spice box, and pure, ripe, jammy cassis and cherry liqueur. It is full-bodied and concentrated, with sweet, surprisingly supple tannin, and a powerful, long finish. It will last for nearly two decades. Anticipated maturity: now-2016. Tel. (707) 963-5711; fax (707) 963-7518

Ripe and fruity, with intense and penetrating black-currant flavors and a spicing from toasty oak. Quite dry, and a bit acidic, leading to a tart finish. A bit austere now, sort of a Johnny-one-note, but could gain in complexity down the road. —S.H.——S.H.(12/31/2002)—— 87