A big offering, the full-bodied 2005 Chardonnay Private Reserve reveals notions of hazelnuts intermixed with honeyed pineapple, poached pears, and toasty oak. Well-made with good acidity, beautiful richness, and a vibrant, long finish, it should drink well for 4-5 years. Previously recommended: 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Knight’s Valley (90), 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa (89), 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Bancroft Ranch (90), 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Chabot Vineyard (92), 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Marston Vineyard (90+), 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve (94), 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Quarry Vineyard (88?), 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Rancho del Oso (87), 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena Home Vineyard (93), 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Steinhauer Vineyard (90), 2004 Chardonnay Napa (87), 2004 Chardonnay Private Reserve (92), 2004 Chardonnay Sbragia Limited Release (93). Tel. (707) 963-7115; Fax (707) 963-1735

The underlying wine in Beringer’s ’05 Reserve is a rich blend of tropical fruit, peach, pear and apple flavors. But the wine is overoaked, with 75% new wood in the barrel fermentation. Anyone sensitive to the taste of new oak will instantly recognize the immense cosmetic of smoky char, sweet vanilla, buttered toast and spicy, sappy wood essence, which seems excessive and not really needed.——S.H.(11/1/2007)—— 87