The 2007 Chardonnay Private Reserve (always one of California’s top Chardonnays) has toned down the toasty oak component, exhibiting excellent nutty, honeyed, buttery notes of orange marmalade, brioche, and spice. Full-bodied, rich, and pure, it reminds me of a Burgundian premier cru from Chassagne-Montrachet or Meursault. Beringer continues to turn out an impressive array of wines, proving that a gigantic global operation can be focused on quality and character. Beringer’s Pinot Noir program continues to show more and more promise. Beringer’s Cabernet Sauvignon program includes two outstanding bargains, one from Knight’s Valley and one from Napa. They are both serious Cabernet Sauvignons meant to be drunk young, but both are capable of lasting a decade or more. For their Private Club members, Beringer offers approximately 200 cases of all the single vineyards that go into their Private Reserve cuvee. I’ll keep my tasting notes brief since these wines are only available to Private Club members. However, it is always interesting that, aside from two or three of the single vineyards, the Private Reserve final blend is always the finest wine of the group. This has been proven time and time again at these tastings. Tel. (707) 963-7115; Fax (707) 963-1735

Massively oaked. Some people will find it dominated by the taste of toothpicks, while others will love the butterscotch and caramel. It’s certainly delicious. The basic fruits suggest pineapples, papayas, pears and nectarines, wrapped into a texture of pure buttercream.——S.H.(11/1/2009)—— 92