Who needs Kimmeridgian when wines like the 2012 Petit Chablis strut their stuff on Portlandian? It comes from 6 hectares of vine planted double-Guyot and sees 12 months in stainless steel. This little gem has a bright, vivacious, sea-spray scented nose that is very well-defined and full of character. The palate follows suit: well-balanced with nicely judged acidity, plenty of tension and that subtle marine influence reappearing on the finish. This is what Petit Chablis can aspire to. Drink now-2017. I received the wines from Isabelle and Denis Pommier after my visit to the region. I am so glad that they sent the samples because these were an absolute delight. Based in the village of Poinchy, they initially inherited just 2 hectares of vines back in 1990, which has gradually expanded to 16 hectares. They recently converted to organic viticulture. The harvest is conducted by hand and is mostly fermented and aged in stainless steel vats. There is some barrel aging, the wood sourced from four coopers. I just admired the authenticity of these Chablis wines - rarely extravagant or profound - yet consistently balanced, mineral-driven and precise. These all come highly recommended. Importer:Polaner Selections, Mount Kisko, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404; Classic Wines, Stamford, CT; tel. (203) 530-2319; Vineyard Road, Framingham, MA; tel. 508-532-1184; Thomas Calder, tkcalder@yahoo.fr; Lyle Fass Selections, New York; www.fassselections.com