An unusual wine for Paso Robles, 2011 Vermentino is full of brisk, saline notes. Hints of white-fleshed fruit emerge over time, but this remains a wonderfully crisp, energetic wine to drink in its youth. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2014. As always, my tasting at Tablas Creek was a bit of a marathon session covering several dozen wines, but that is just a testament to a world-class winery that excels at so many things. This year I tasted with proprietor Jason Haas, winemaker Ryan Hebert and assistant winemaker Chelsea Magnusson. Haas describes 2011 as a difficult year. A devastating spring frost reduced yields by as much as 40% in some places. Vintage 2010 was characterized by a long growing season, but without the huge heat spikes that were seen elsewhere. It was also much more plentiful, which gave the winery the quality and ability to bottle its four main red Rhone varieties separately. Tel. (805) 237-1231; www.tablascreek.com