The 2004 Gratius is a selection of the estate's finest Sangiovese. This brawny, powerful wine expresses the darker, brooding side of Sangiovese in its leather, tar, earthiness, toasted oak and tobacco, showing outstanding length and fine overall balance. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2014. These new releases from Il Molino di Grace show a noticeable improvement over last year's wines.Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

Gratius is a heavily oak-driven Sangiovese with aromas of mesquite, cedar, spice and church incense. There’s little fruit here and what you do get is reminiscent of prunes and dried figs. In the mouth, this wine offers luscious sweetness and soft, dense texture. Drink now.——M.L.(11/1/2009)—— 89