Substantial as well as classic is the opaque ruby/purple-colored 1999 Syrah Rodney's Vineyard. Pepper, creme de cassis, and licorice emerge from the tightly-knit nose. Backward, with high levels of extract, richness, and tannin, 1-2 years of cellaring is required. Anticipated maturity: 2003-2015. Tel. (805) 688-1545

Toasty, nutty aromas vie with earthy, horsey scents, but underneath this sideshow there's gobs of blackberries, prune plums and licorice. Finishes long and tangy, with complex notes of coffee, black pepper and smoked meat.——W.E.(11/1/2001)—— 89