The 2008 Syrah Rodney's Vineyard is an intense, powerful wine bursting with licorice, blackberries, spices and earthiness. Some rough edges linger, yet this remains a pleasing Syrah loaded with personality. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. This line up from Fess Parker is impressive. A number of the higher-end wines are delicious, but I was most struck by the quality of several of the estate’s entry-level offerings. These are some of the very finest values in California.Tel. (800) 841-1104; www.fessparker.com

The 2008 Syrah Rodney's Vineyard is an intense, powerful wine bursting with licorice, blackberries, spices and earthiness. Some rough edges linger, yet this remains a pleasing Syrah loaded with personality. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. This line up from Fess Parker is impressive. A number of the higher-end wines are delicious, but I was most struck by the quality of several of the estate’s entry-level offerings. These are some of the very finest values in California. Tel. (800) 841-1104; www.fessparker.com

Your immediate impression of this Syrah is power. It’s a darkly colored, big, thick and intensely flavored wine, with furry tannins framing massive flavors of blackberries, teryaki beef, black pepper and smoky oak. Easily deserves its high score despite a certain rude assault. ——S.H.(12/1/2011)—— 92