From a vineyard named after Fess Parker’s late son-in-law, the 2002 Syrah Rodney’s Vineyard boasts a sweet perfume of Valrhona chocolate intermixed with espresso roast, blackberries, cassis, camphor, and flowers. The complex aromatic display is followed by a wine of enormous density, richness, and balance with good acidity as well as sweet but noticeable tannin. This is a somewhat backward, youthful 2002 that will age beautifully for 10-12 years. Tel. (805) 688-1545

Clearly astringent, but this wine may have a good future. The flavors of ripe, sweet blackberries and smoky espresso are dramatic, and so is the vibrant, lemony acidity. Hold until 2007 while you wait for the components to come together.——W.E.(9/1/2005)—— 86