For decades Hanzell has been making one of California’s most (and only) ageworthy Chards. The ’03 is one for the cellar, but it comes at the price of being hard in youth. Starts out flinty and tannic, although as it airs, new oak and pineapple emerge. This seems like a very good Hanzell. Best 2009–2015. ——S.H.(11/15/2006)—— 92