Impressive is the superb non-vintage Manzanilla Papirusa. Its light straw color is accompanied by a spicy, nutty nose, elegant, dry flavors, delicious purity, and a smoky intensity. It would be fabulous with sushi. Drink it over the next year. Importer: a Christopher Cannan Selection, various American importers including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300 and Diamond Wine Merchants, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 567-9897

Textbook Manzanilla! Papirusa is a clean, mildly salinic offering with green banana and toast aromas. The palate is just salty enough, but the wine’s more about almond, apple and lemon peel than saline. And the feel and finish are nutty and warm. A full-bodied but refreshing style as only Lustau can do.——M.S.(6/1/2009)—— 90