The Diel 2009 Dorsheimer Pittermannchen Riesling Spatlese – at 8% alcohol and in the upper 50s of grams residual sugar, yet not overly-sweet – is alluringly scented with bergamot, black tea, wet stone, almond paste, honeydew melon, pear, and Urziger Wurzgarten-like strawberry, which follow lusciously and with intricate counterpoint on a creamy yet refreshing palate. A saliva-inducing streak of salinity runs through this as well, adding to the sheer irresistibility of its remarkably long finish. Look for 20-25 years of delight and wonder. Caroline Diel’s 2009 collection is noteworthy not only for a range of outstanding Riesling such as has long been anticipated (though seldom bettered) at this estate, but also for a set of wines from the Pinot family – all, incidentally, now labeled with French rather than German names for their varieties – that in my estimation mark a significant up-tick in quality. That this estate has been famous in Germany for its work with Pinots ever since Armin Diel assumed charge in 1987 and began barrique vinification, I am of course well aware. But only in recent years have I witnessed tendencies to restrain the influence of new wood and to encourage real subtlety, which seem to me prerequisites for achieving with these varieties anything remotely approaching the class of Schlossgut Diel’s Rieslings. The 2009 Pinots were harvested in mid-October and most of the Rieslings in the two weeks following. The superb botrytis selections were all picked-out ahead of even the Pinots. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300