However, (surprise, surprise) even better is the 2004 Gran Reserva which has yet to be released. It spent 5 years in barrel before bottling. Purple/black in color with a surreal bouquet of kinky spice, truffle, mineral, and black fruit aromas, on the palate it is remarkably powerful, yet elegant. Mouth-filling, complex, and staggeringly rich, it has the balance to evolve for 15-20 years and should easily have a 50 year lifespan. Bodegas Fernando Remirez de Ganuza is one of Rioja’s benchmark estates. It encompasses about 132 acres located in four regions of Alava Rioja planted to approximately 90% Tempranillo and 10% Graciano. The winery itself is located in the village of Samaniego. Upon my arrival at the Bodega in May 2010, I discovered a surprise. In addition to a vertical tasting of all the Reservas, Senor Remirez had prepared a similar vertical of Trasnocho, a wine that has never been exported to the USA. With all due respect, the greatest vintages from Bodegas Fernando Remirez de Ganuza in my opinion are 2004 and 2001. Trasnocho is Fernando Remirez de Ganuza’s take on a more contemporary style. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767