Bruno Tait’s wines are unapologetically big and rich; this one does show a hint of warmth on the finish. But it also shows concentrated flavors of plum, blackberry and chocolate, along with a savory element that keeps it from seeming too jammy. Tannins are creamy-textured, the finish long and licorice-inflected. Drink it now and over the next five or six years.——J.C.(6/1/2009)—— 92