The signature wine of this pioneering central Oregon winery is their Tempranillo. Here it is nicely ripened and complex, layering boysenberries, mineral, wet earth, fennel, leaf, cedar and whiffs of smoke. Quite tart and tannic, but clearly varietal; this excellent 2003 seems just a bit less concentrated than in the very best vintages. ——P.G.(11/15/2005)—— 89