Complex aromas mix a fragrant blend of soy, black fruits, chalk and graphite. The tannins—big, chalky and a bit rough—overshadow the fruit, which remains compact and tucked away. There is plenty of tart acid along with those tannins to warrant cellaring this wine for at least five years. If you pop it now, give it several hours of breathing time.——P.G.(4/1/2007)—— 88