Abacela’s tenth vintage of Tempranillo suggests it’s time to call the “experiment” a success. It’s savory and scented with cured meats; a spicy red that marries black currant fruit to pepper and more exotic spices—curry, cumin and five spice. Tannins are tongue-scrapingly dry, but is there a better match for a thick steak?——P.G.(4/1/2009)—— 91