The big, powerful, rich 1992 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard displays stunning breadth and length. It could easily be confused with a grand cru Chassagne-Montrachet. With a spicy, honeyed, grilled nut element, spectacular layers of fruit, and an unctuous texture, this blockbuster, impeccably well-balanced Chardonnay should be drunk over the next 5-6 years.
At their new installation on Vine Hill Road in Sonoma County, Mark Bixler and Steve Kistler have produced the best wines in their distinguished careers. While the 1993 Chardonnays will not be released until next year, it appears that they are as good, perhaps superior to the glorious 1992s, but I will wait until they are bottled to make a final judgment. Of the 1992 Chardonnays reviewed, only three have been released - the Sonoma, the Durell Vineyard, and the Dutton Ranch. The other four Chardonnays - the Cuvee Kathleen, the Kistler Vineyard, the McCrea Vineyard, and the Vine Hill Road Vineyard - will be released November 1st, but it is not too soon to find out what treats are in store for consumers.