The 1996 Chardonnay Sonoma Coast, which is actually an assemblage of many different small lots, has a light golden color, followed by a buttery, white peach, and popcorn-scented nose, with excellent layers of fruit. The wine is well-made and clean, with gravelly, stony scents and copious quantities of fruit. It reveals good acidity for a 1996, medium to full body, and 4-5 years of aging potential. All the Kistler Chardonnays are made in a Burgundian manner. They are barrel-fermented, given full malolactic fermentation, extensive lees stirring, racked out of their barrels following a year's cask aging, and allowed to settle in tank until bottling, which usually occurs without any fining or filtration. All of the wines reviewed in this segment were tasted from tank as they were awaiting bottling early next year.Readers should recognize that Kistler's policy is to sell most of their production directly to consumers and restaurants. Readers who live in states that permit direct shipment of California wines should be sure and get on the winery's mailing list.Tel. (707) 823-5603; Fax (707) 823-6709