The dry-farmed vines at Kistler Vineyard, about 40 years old now, produced a wine with loads of personality. The 2020 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard unfolds its aromatic layers slowly, blossoming from flint to white peaches and lime peel, plus touches of dried sage, beeswax, almonds and pie crust. The palate is surprisingly powerful and concentrated, with hedonistic layers of stone fruit and candied citrus. All that fruit density is supported by a silky texture and seamless acidity, and a touch of phenolic texture drives its tremendously long finish.