The 1990 Volnay-Les Carelles possesses terrific color, plenty of hard tannins, good richness, grip, and body, and a long, spicy, unevolved finish. With bottle age, the obvious wood should become integrated with the wine's fruit. Readers who admire intensely concentrated, big, tannic, oaky wines will probably rate Bouley's 1990s higher. He is aiming for maximum extraction as well as a gutsy style of Pinot Noir, perhaps at the expense of charm and finesse. A Christopher Cannan Selection, Europvin - various importers.