The 2017 Volnay 1er Cru Les Carelles is showing beautifully from bottle, wafting from the glass with a deep bouquet of plums, dark chocolate, wild berries, violets and grilled squab. Medium to full-bodied, supple and enveloping, its expansive attack segues into a bright and nicely defined mid-palate, concluding with a chalky, mineral finish. Readers might want to think of this as a more tensile, mineral version of the Volnay Vieilles Vignes bottling that comes from just below Les Carelles.