The 2014 Volnay 1er Cru les Carelles, which was completely destemmed (unlike the forthcoming 2015), has a more voluminous bouquet than the 2014 les Caillerets with plenty of wild strawberry, raspberry and dried herb scents that gain intensity with aeration in the glass. The palate is lively and animated with slightly chalky tannin, a very taut line of acidity (even though analytically it has a high pH!), with great structure and poise on the finish. This is a very sophisticated les Carelles, one surfeit with mineral tension and nervosité. This is just superb.