Streamlined and tight, the 2011 Brunello di Montalcino shows a tight fabric, bright berry aromas and a touch of sour cherry on the finish. Col d'Orcia is a winery in a unique position. Because a good part of the vineyards are located on the lower, southern side of the Montalcino appellation, fruit ripens faster and shows bolder characteristics. At the same time, the house style is classic and unembellished. These two factors don't normally jive together, but this estate does a great job of making sure they do, thanks to rigorous green harvesting and fruit selection. The bouquet is redolent of wild berries, white cherry, dried raspberry and spice. At the back, you'll find delicate tones of cola and rosemary. I'm pleased to see that this wine is not overtly marked by the hot summer.