Showing too much acidity, yet still holding it together, the 2003 Hermitage Gambert de Loche, which spent 18 months in 100% new oak, offers ample dark fruit, asphalt, licorice and dark chocolate-like aromas and flavors. Medium to full-bodied and nicely concentrated on the mid-palate, it turns tart and slightly clipped on the finish, and should be drunk up sooner rather than later. While I haven’t tasted many older releases from this large coop, don’t miss their current releases, as they’re knocking it out of the park.