A full-bodied, plush and supple offering, the milkshake that is the 2017 Hermitage Gambert de Loche brings all the fanboys to the yard. Vanilla and mocha notes accent ripe blackberry fruit, finishing long, creamy and lush. It should drink well on release and looks to have the substance to age 10-15 years. Over time, I expect it to firm up a bit and show more of its granitic terroir, but for now it's a modern, hedonistic pleasure bomb.