Dark plums, black cherries menthol and tar burst from the glass in the 2007 Barolo La Pira Vecchie Vigne. It possesses stunning depth in a vivid expression of Nebbiolo that is hard to capture with mere words. Totally alive in the glass, the 2007 is endowed with gorgeous purity and nuance, which nicely complements its full-bodied, authoritative personality. Firm tannins support layers of dark fruit on the masculine finish. This is a fabulous showing from Roagna. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2032. Readers will note a change with these new releases from Luca Roagna. The top Barolo and Barbaresco selections are all being released at the same time, which means there is basically one vintage on the market at a time, rather than the mish-mash of vintages that was previously the custom. Roagna has also stepped up the quality of his corks, which is quite welcome for wines that are meant to age for decades. As always, the winemaking style at Roagna is deeply imbued in tradition. Late harvests, extended macerations and long aging in neutral oak inform wines of great personality. Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191