Dr. Loosen’s Kabinett wines sometimes approach the Spatlese level of concentration and flavor; this Spatlese could be someone’s Auslese. It’s decadently ripe, a rich mouthful of peaches, apricots, orange and pineapple, almost viscous and floral-honey sweet. Which is not to say it lacks acidity, structure or balance. Wonderful, spicy-sweet cinnamon and nutmeg accents offset the fruit, there’s a somewhat grainy palate texture, like ultraripe pears. Finishes long.——W.E.(8/1/2001)—— 89