Paumanok’s 2005 Petit Verdot Apollo Drive mingles sumac and white pepper with its black and blue fruits. Even more tannic today than its 2007 counterpart, it is formidable rather than winsome, and I wonder whether there is any point to holding it longer as opposed to serving it in a context where its sheer density and chew – as well as, perhaps, some meat tenderizing skills – will be shown off.Veteran Charles Massoud and his oldest son, Kareem, are practicing increasing selectivity and sorting of fruit as well as ever more sensitive and targeted extraction, and their 2007s build on and refine the success of their 2005s.Tel. (631) 722-8800