From a large but little-known cru between Clos des Mouches and Champs Pimont and a parcel (planted in Chardonnay as well) that the Lafarges just acquired, their 2005 Beaune Les Aigrots displays red cherry and plum with a prominent chew of tart skins and bitterness of their pits. That bitterness, along with sheer density, formidable tannins, and chalky mineral character make for a rather austere youth. But don’t count this out. The fruit is impressively pure and more than ripe enough, though lacking in any superficial sweetness, and this Pinot is nothing if not tenacious. Only time – possibly several years – will tell whether this wine’s tightness is embryonic. The entire Lafarge collection was predictably still in barrel when I visited in February, with even the generic cuvees due for assembly only in March. Speaking of generic bottlings, I don’t know of another domaine that has three of them, and I certainly doubt that there is one with three routinely worthy of attention even by those with the disposable income to afford premier crus. A Becky Wassserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70