The 2009 Vitiano Rosso is a big, super-ripe wine bursting with red cherries, earthiness and spices. This is a truly beautiful Vitiano Rosso with tons of fruit and a racy, opulent personality. The full-throttle style verges on over ripeness and is on the edge of being over the top, but readers who enjoy this type of wine will find much to admire, especially for what remains an exceedingly modest price. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2014. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620