Granges is now aging his Cornas in about 50% new oak barrels with the balance of the cuvee in older wood. The 2004 Cornas Chante Perdrix exhibits nice new saddle leather aromas intermixed with raspberry, blueberry, and some cassis. This medium to full-bodied wine has some hints of truffle and roasted meats. It should be approachable young, but last 10-15 years. The very talented Burgundian Jacques Granges continues to build on the success he has had at Delas Freres. He, along with the new owners, the Deutz-Roederer Champagne empire (they recently acquired Pichon-Lalande in Pauillac as well), have been responsible for the resurrection of Delas from a so-so negociant to one of the better sources of top-quality Rhones. And this has been done in less than a decade. 2004 is a classic vintage of structure and good balance, but too often lacking concentration. The 2005s are much more concentrated but also structured, tannic, and backward. Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000