There is good, solid fruit here, as can be expected from this quality producer, but the problem seems to be an excess of sulfur, and it spoils the nose. It also bleeds into the palate, with harsh burnt match flavors overriding the fleshy fruit and citrus components. Swirl it, decant it, anything to let it breathe, and you’ll be rewarded. —P.G.——P.G.(4/1/2002)—— 86