The 1991 Hermitage, made primarily from two vineyards on Hermitage Hill called Meal and Bessards, is lighter than either the 1989 or 1990. It is a medium weight, elegant, ripe wine with expansive richness, and a moderately tannic finish. It should drink well for 10-15 years. Importer: Classic Wines, Boston, MA; Tel. (617) 731-6644

A tight, tannic, unevolved red that needs time to develop. Good, deep color, lean fruit flavors, very firm tannins and a bit of a lingering finish. Try now. -